We first met Thomas Bachelder and his wife, Mary Delaney, in 2020 when they generously agreed to come up to Sault Ste. Marie to do a wine tasting in February at Stokely Creek.
Prior to the tasting, they stayed with us. They came with two huge suitcases, which, when opened, proved to be filled with bottles of wine, each bottle wrapped in a pair of socks to prevent breakage. It worked!
While they were with us, Thomas noticed a couple of empty bottles on our buffet – a 1945 Burgundy and a 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc from Bordeaux. We had an amazing opportunity to drink them with Gaylen and Susan Byker, the owners of Stokely. (The Burgundy at its advanced age was so-so, at best… but the Bordeaux was still stunning.)
Thomas immediately said – Give them to me. I will refill them for you – drink them again, and I will repeat! He was true to his word, filling them with a unique Ontario blend of his own, with a label on the back stating that they were NOT the original wines, and explaining what was now in the bottles. He didn’t have to do that… but that is the kind of man and enthusiastic wine lover that he is.
Fast-forward to this past April, and we were finally able to visit the “Bat Cave”, as he and Mary call their winery on the Niagara Bench.
The previous day, we had a tremendous experience at Stratus – ultra-modern, state-of-the-art. The contrast in location couldn’t have been greater, as the Bat Cave is basically a garage-like structure. We had our tasting in the barrel room… gravel floor, with barrels stacked two or three high surrounding us, and candles lit to add to the ambience.
Thomas, the founding winemaker of Le Clos Jordanne, had just been named the recipient of the Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaker Award. (Karl was the initial winemaker for Inniskillin – which in 1974 became the first winery in Canada to be granted a license in Ontario since prohibition.
Speaking about Thomas, Dan Paszkowski, President & CEO of Wine Growers Canada, said, “Thomas’s exceptional experience and genius in the production specifically of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has truly put him on the global winemaking map. Not only do his wines excel, but further, he is genuinely invested in equipping and mentoring the next generation of winemakers, having been instrumental in the establishment of Ontario’s International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C) and always making time for fellow winemakers."
The “i4C”–International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration is being held in Niagara from July 17 through the 20th this year.
The weather for our visit in April was a bit dreary, but the hospitality was as warm as could be.
Thomas’s wines are excellent. The British magazine Decanter has featured them several times in the past year, ranking them not only among the top wines in Ontario but in all of the Americas. There is a subtlety to his wines, as he painstakingly endeavours to allow them to express themselves.
He believes very strongly in “terroir” – the idea that the place where the grapes are grown can have unique expressions. To that end, he has painstakingly mapped out 30 sites throughout Niagara, mainly along the Bench, but also in Niagara-On-The-Lake, which he believes are distinctive.
His production is small, but varied. There are many single-vineyard wines, and then there are the “Les Villages,” which would incorporate wine assembled from several sites. From each site, Thomas might get 12 barrels, of which 8 might get the single vineyard designation, and the remaining 4 going into the “Villages” wine.
A good example of the single vineyards are three produced from sites within 20 metres of one another. In 1922, Thomas made a Wismer Park, a Wismer Park “Wild West End” and a Hanck Chardonnay. He described the soil in each case - red, redder, and white - and the wines made from each were distinctive.
By the way, if your experience with Chardonnay is “oak bomb”, think again. Thomas aims for the purest expression of fruit and character possible. The wines are complex and a joy.
With each wine he makes, Thomas keeps studious, hand-written notes throughout its development, continually learning and honing his craft.
With the 2023 harvest, Thomas made 14 different Chardonnays, but his plan is to cut that down to 10, and eventually to 6. He doesn’t own the vineyards, but follows the French practice of “negociant”, purchasing the particular grapes he wants from different growers in the region.
Thomas specializes in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Gamay, all grapes associated with Burgundy in France, where Thomas spent two years learning and developing his craft as a winemaker. While Thomas learned, Mary supported them by teaching dance!
Many wineries around the world, including Niagara, are owned by wealthy people who have a passion for wine and the resources to pursue them. In Thomas’ case, though we have someone who grew up on a farm in Quebec, intended to be a journalist, but felt he had to pursue his dream. With him, we have someone whose success is built totally on his skill and passion, and the complete dedication and teamwork of Thomas and Mary.
After a stint in Oregon, Thomas returned to Canada and became the winemaker for le Clos Jordanne, the flagship wine for the Arterra group. (Recently, Arterra bought Angels Gate Winery, and has transformed it into the official home of le Clos Jordanne.)
In a Wines In Niagara article by Rick Van Sickle in November 2024, he explains how Thomas focuses keenly on producing wines with the lest intervention possible, using wild natural yeasts, organically grown grapes when possible, and long aging (19 months?) in mostly neutral oak, best allowing the wine to express its “terroir.”
“The intent is to make pure, subtle, suavely textured wines that sing lightly and clearly of their vineyard origins, with as little makeup as possible – wines that are finely perfumed and tightly wound, offering the classic refined fruit and textured minerality of the delicate silt, clay and dolomitic limestone-laced ancient lakebed terroirs of Niagara,” said Bachelder.
At our tasting, we were able to enjoy Gamays, Pinot Noirs, and Chardonnays and appreciate the subtle differences as Thomas led us through them.
Many of his wines are available at their site –bachelderniagara.com. I would recommend reading Rick Van Sickle’s artlcle which includes tasting notes on many of the wines.
They may seem expensive, but when you understand the effort, skill, intellect, and love that has been devoted to them, you will understand that they are worth it.
Bachelder wines, including le Clos Jordanne, appear in Vintages frequently, though they don’t always end up in Sault Ste. Marie. Currently, our Great Northern road store has two of his wines. Give yourself a treat, and try them.
Bachelder Les Villages Bench Pinot Noir 2022, $34.95, a blend of the Pinots he made that vintage, received a 91 from Van Sickle, which he said is “round and silky on the palate with a melange of red berries, anise, a touch of spice and a layered, vibrant finish. Delicious and elegant Pinot to enjoy now.”
Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Pinot Noir 2021, $30. “Oak-derived spices are seamlessly woven into a silken palate infused with fleshy red berries, dark cherries, dried herbs, and the beguiling scent of fresh magnolias. This is a wine that is already balanced and integrated, though it will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. The finish is long and intense, ending on a spice-infused note.” -92, winealign.com.
Wines To Try
General List
Lapin Bleu Merlot, $10.95. The current vintage continues to keep this wine as an amazing bargain. While there is ample fruit reminiscent of cherry and plum, what stand out for me is the structure, harmony and complexity in such an inexpensive wine. Savour it.
Agua Do Sol Vinho Regional Lisboa Red, $9.65, is a fairly new arrival to the shelves, and it, too,over-delivers. Made from the Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Alicante de Bouschet grapes, it is pleasurable and dry, balanced and full-flavoured. It doesn’t have to be Italian to pair magnificently with pizza!
Vintages
Santa Maria Lepiga Soave 2024, $15.95, is a fresh and minerally white wine from the Veneto region of Italy. The winery explains that “it is made from pure Garganega Veronese grapes, harvested by hand in three different stages of maturation from low-yielding vineyards. After careful fermentation in steel tanks follows bâtonnage, a wine-making technique which consists of the suspension of fine lees to obtain a greater structure. Thanks to this particular production process, Soave Lepiga is a fresh, soft wine, characterized by a strong taste and a pleasant persistence.”
Cape Point Noordhoek Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $19.95, from South Africa, which winealign’s David Lawrason tells us “is a fulsome rounded and fairly well balanced sauvignon with tropical kiwi, green pepper and fine fresh herb/evergreen. Very much in the Cape style, not NZ or France. And despite its richness and warmth, it displays a sense of grip, minerality and cohesion.” – 92.
Casas del Bosque Botanic Series Pinot Noir Rosé 2024, $16.95, from Chile, has “a fresh, direct nose of raspberries, cherry pits and plenty of ripe strawberries. Simple yet attractive, with a medium body, bright acidity and a dry, flavourful finish of medium length.” 90 – jamessuckling.com.
Agramont Graciano 2022, $15.95, from Spain, is a winner. Made entirely from the Graciano grape, it offers “dazzling raspberries, violets and dried rose petals with a harmony of fresh herbs. Fluid and inviting with juicy acidity and a seamless backbone of fine tannins. Score - 95. (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2024)
Sur de Los Andes Reserva Pinot Noir 2022, $16.95, from Argentina, is brick red with subtle, spice notes and the impression of cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit. The tannins are soft and gentle, and it finishes with some elegant acidity.
Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône 2020, $19.95, from the south of France, offers good fruit, suggestions of wild herb, and earthy and leather notes on the finish. James Suckling says it is “poised and juicy with a vivid finish.” -91