Simply put, cider is fermented apple juice. It is probably made wherever apples are grown. While many are familiar with English cider, such as Strongbow, most of the ciders available for us to purchase are produced in Ontario from local fruit.
At the recent National Wine Awards of Canada, there were 59 entries from across Canada. Considering that there are apparently over 400 cideries from coast to coast, we can’t say absolutely that the winners at the competition are the best in the country, but we can say that they are the best of the cider that the producers were willing to put to the test.
One of those cideries is Thornbury, located on the shores of Georgian Bay just up the road from Collingwood. It is surrounded by about 7500 acres of apple orchards. Of the 30 medals given, Thornbury won 5 –two gold, two silver, and one bronze.
The special edition Tragically Hip “Road Apples” Cider took the trophy as ‘Best Cider of the Year’. It has an excellent apple flavour, but what impresses the most is the balance between the sparkling crispness and sweetness. It is eminently sippable and distinctive. The cider was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Tagically Hip’s second album ‘Road Apples’ (Older people like me, who still remember our milk being delivered to our homes by horse and wagon, may raise an eyebrow at the name, ‘Road Apples’…but I promise the only thing in the can is pure and delicious fruit!)
Traditional dry ciders usually carry 5 to 8 % alcohol by volume, and the Road Apples is listed at 5.1%
Thornbury, fortunately, is owned by Colio, and so we are able to purchase pretty well the full range of ciders at the shop inside Pino’s. The Tragically Hip cider sells for $3.39 plus tax for a 473 ml can. – That’s basically about $3.85 a can. The Grocery stores and boutiques don’t fold the tax into the price as the LCBO has always done and continues to do. Wherever you are buying your wine, beer or cider, you will ultimately pay the same amount as you would at the LCBO – I will provide prices after tax.
Thornbury’s second gold medal was won by the Raspberry Apple Cider, $7.95 for a 500ml. bottle. The Cider Crate website tells us that “the Raspberry Apple by Thornbury Craft Cider is a very raspberry-forward offering. Although some apples are present, it’s simply a canvas for smooth, juicy and fresh raspberries to showcase their taste. Very clean without any real elements of fermentation, it’s 5.2% alcohol and semi-sweet with some tart elements. Heavier, thicker body.”
Silver medals were earned by the Blood Orange and Honeycrisp Apple Ciders. The Blood Orange Cider, $7.95, 5.3% ABV, is distinctive. In appearance, it is cloudy. The orange flavour holds, start to finish, along with a note of ginger. As with all these ciders, there is a natural effervescence, giving the mouthfeel a tingle.
Just as the Honeycrisp apple emphasizes sweetness, so the cider also impresses as sweeter than the other ciders mentioned. Still, just as an off-dry Riesling wine balances the sweetness with appropriate acidity, so does the Honeycrisp Cider rein in the sugar element on the finish. Honeycrisp is not a traditional apple for cider, but Thornbury has pulled it off. Sara d’Amato of winealign assessed it as “fresh with a delicious sweet and sour acid balance and an impressive purity of apple flavour.” It sells for $3.75 for 473 ml.
Thornbury’s bronze medal was won by the Wild Blueberry and Elderflower Cider, $3.75, available at the LCBO as well as the Colio boutique The LCBO explains “aromas and flavours of elderflower, passionfruit and blueberry lead to a flavourful finish. Enjoy cold with roast pork, turkey or pastries.” It is full-flavoured and balanced, but sweeter than some of the others.
Thornbury has many, many, more fascinating ciders, including a Strong Cider at over 7% alcohol, and a Pear Cider, a Spiced Apple, Cranberry Apple, and a Rosé Apple Cider, among others. You can check online to see what you can acquire through the LCBO, or visit the Colio boutique.
Thornbury is also producing Hard Seltzers. The Raspberry Wave is $3.25 and made with apple vodka, showcasing flavours of raspberry, pomelo, and dragonfruit. This is a popular and growing segment of the drinks industry. It is 7% alcohol by volume. The flavour is light and refreshing. There are still some warm days ahead, and so this might be just the ticket.
New to the LCBO from Colio are the Dockside Premium White and Premium Red Blends, each $9.95, and made entirely from Ontario grapes. Both are dry, with the white carrying 8 grams of sugar per litre, the red, just 4.
The white, a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Vidal, is balanced and easy to drink. It is in the “Goldilocks” zone – not too sweet, not to dry. This isn’t a wine to mull over and analyze. It is made for simple enjoyment, as the name, Dockside, implies.
The red is a distinctive blend of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc –all grapes associated with Bordeaux in France. I am impressed by its smooth entry, decent depth, and good length for what might be considered a simple wine. Again, the emphasis is on quiet pleasure. Both wines are crafted to be enjoyable sippers, but both can “come to the table” and do a meal proud.
Vintages Wines
Sparkling
San Martino Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore 2024, $17.95, from the best area of production in Italy, is “deliciously fragrant with sweet pear, peach, white freesia flower and ripe pineapple it fills the mouth with a nice fruity froth covered with mineral notes, beautiful acidity and a crisp dry finish with hints of lemon peel. - winecurrent.com – 91.
Bernard Fouquet Ysance Brut Vouvray Sparkling, $19.95 is from Franc’s Loire region. It is made in the traditional method with secondary fermentation in the bottle. We told by thewinedoctor.com that it has “a beautifully poised palate, supple and polished, rounded with soft orange and apricot fruits, veined with white pebble mineral notes, chalk and white freesia.” - 92.
Labrusca Lini 910 Lambrusco Rosso Secco, $21.95, is dry, unlike most “lambruscos” we see. The website, “Cheese Meets Wine” waxes enthusiastic – “The first flirtatious whisper of ripe plum and juicy blackberry beckons you closer, while the tantalizing dance of cherry, strawberry, and blueberry teases your palate. As the robust undercurrent of fennel and a sophisticated hint of licorice weave through this velvety, effervescent red, you are transported to a rustic Italian landscape where tradition and passion meld.” They must like it.
White
This is the perfect time to pick up some Sauvignon Blanc, as there are 8 available on the September 16 and 30 releases, 6 from New Zealand. Among them are the following:
Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2024, $17.95, is from Niagara. “20% of the fruit was barrel fermented using neutral Canadian oak barrels. It has an enticing nose of grapefruit, peach, grassy/herbaceous notes, apple and just a hint of spice. There is a lovely texture on the palate with rich and layered pear, peach, fresh apple, grapefruit, minty herbs, a touch of spice and a vibrant finish. Score - 90. Winesinniagara.com.
Clark Estate Riverside Terrace Sauvignon Blanc 2023, $20.95, is “wonderfully fruited and immediately appealing, the wine shows green apple, rockmelon, mango and lemon peel aromas, followed by an intensely flavoursome palate displaying excellent vibrancy and persistency..” Sam Kim - 93
Matawhero Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2024, $22.95. Cameron Douglas MS, explains that it is “potent and pungent with fresh citrus and tropical fruit flavours, fresh herbs and earth spices. The biggest impact is on the palate with a laser strike of acidity, contrasting core fruit flavours of citrus and tropical, then hay and herbs. – 93.
Red
11 Pinos Bobal 2022, $14.95, is an attractive Portuguese red. The winemaker’s notes suggest that the wine is “cherry red with violet aftertones, lively, clean, bright, medium depth intensity. Black fruit, cherry, redcurrants, together with strong mineral character in the bouquet. Subtle balsamic and spicy nuances. On the tongue the wine is fresh and fleshy with intensity. Noble tannin adds structure, but quite polished. Bright acidity adds character and brings complexity to the long, lingering finish.”.
San Alejandro Evodia Garnacha 2022, $16.95, from Spain, is “a Garnacha (Grenache) showcase: over-spilling with wild strawberries and red plums which glisten and gleam over the succulent palate, with smooth, supple tannins and an appetising length. Score - 95. (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2024)
Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2023, $17.95, comes with a great pedigree, being made in Chile by the same people who produce the great Mouton Rothschild. At this price, it is a steal. James Suckling suggests it is a “new pinot noir with aromas of sliced strawberries, lemongrass, stems and roses that follow through to a medium body with firm tannins and acidity that gives freshness and bright character on the palate. Excellent value. Attractive to drink now but will improve with age.” - 93.