This week in part one of two stories Bill introduces us to a wilderness canoe route – easier than you think – and with some differences.
It is sometimes one-stop shopping, on the back roads, especially if you are looking for paddling routes.
There are so many opportunities in northern Ontario. It is a place of water.
Ontario has more than 250,000 freshwater lakes; water covers about one-sixth of Ontario's massive surface area, most of it in the northland.
There is no exact number for the total canoe routes available. You have your favourites.
But the Spanish River and Biscotasi Lake are an interesting one to profile for several reasons, its diverse accessibility without having to go further north by latitude, but with the characteristics that make it a wilderness experience. And it is one of the longest, easiest canoe runs in the province. That’s a selling point.
See the map link.
As a spatial primer, the Spanish runs from the north (two sources) south through Agnew Lake via Espanola, then a big west turn, past Massey and then to the Town of Spanish, part of the North Channel of Lake Huron.
It flows 340 km from two different sources, Biscotasi Lake forming the West branch, and Duke Lake forming the East branch. The branches join at the Forks. The upper portion of the river is shaped like a giant letter Y from above (see Sinker Creek on the VIA trainline). And it is the lure of the train why people climb aboard with canoes and gear in tow and then get off at wilderness locations. The canoeing/sea kayaking is mostly on Biscotasi Lake to Agnew Lake – various sections with options.
Background
Spanish River Provincial Park is a waterway-class park established in 2001 through the ‘Living Legacy’ process of the Mike Harris government. Within the management statement.
“The Spanish River is a provincially significant canoe route. It is rated as novice to intermediate level river for canoeing and backcountry travel on a challenging and scenic waterway. The river supports both traditional remote tourism and eco-adventure tourism.”
Spanish River Provincial Park and Biscotasi Lake Provincial Park are within the lands covered under the Robinson-Superior 1850 Treaty and the James Bay Treaty of 1905 (Treaty No. 9).
Interestingly, the river's name and the names of the nearby towns of Espanola and Spanish are said to be due to French explorers and Jesuit priests encountering Ojibwe peoples speaking Spanish in the area, apparently because of a Spanish woman having been taken captive during an expedition far to the south. It is known by the Anishinaabe as Minitegozibe, or "river of many islands.”
The Spanish River commences from the East Branch in the north at the East Sand River, and in the northwest from the West Branch at the outlet from Biscotasi Lake to their confluence at the Forks, where the river system continues south to Agnew Lake. The protected area under the park plan is thus 135 kilometres and 140 kilometres long, respectively. The river drops 140 metres from Duke to Agnew Lake.
With the Biscotasi Lake Addition, it now includes the main waterbody with 965 km (600 mi) of shoreline and more than 400 islands. The lake’s most famous inhabitant is the loon, not sure why, but there seems to be more here than in other lakes. It is known for its angling success.
It is one of the most irregularly shaped reservoir lakes in the province (impounding water, which controls the water level and outflow). To facilitate logging in the early 1900s, three water control dams were built at its southern outflow. Way downstream, beyond the park plan, there are five hydroelectric dams on the river (four owned mining giant Vale): one, known as Big Eddy, above High Falls forming Agnew Lake (north of Nairn Centre); High Falls dams (2) about a kilometre below Big Eddy dam, Nairn Falls dam about 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) below High Falls and the other at the former Domtar mill in Espanola.
In part, we will look at the reasons why we should be attracted to this route.
Testimonials
Kevin Callan is the author of 18 books, including the best-selling The Happy Camper. The Spanish River (East Branch) is profiled in his book: Top 50 Canoe Routes of Ontario (2011).
“The Spanish River is a perfect gem. It's not a difficult river, especially the east branch to the Bend (“Elbow”). Ripples, swifts and east Class I rapids mostly. If there's anything difficult or questionable, you just simply portage around it. The river pushes you through deep gorges and past gravel banks. It's rich in history, from the First Nations that travelled it to the lumbermen who flushed their logs down it. It was also a favoured place for legendary writer Grey Owl. Access is easy but adventurous at the same time if you choose to jump off the train northeast of Sudbury.”
Jeff Jackson, PhD., is a retired professor, formerly with Algonquin College’s Outdoor Adventure Program in Pembroke. He has 30 years of whitewater paddling, canoe and fly-fishing guiding experience.
If Jeff were to design the ultimate introductory river for a whitewater canoe trip, “it would look an awful lot like the Spanish River.”
He said, “It has all the required ingredients: it feels remote but is easy to get to; it has beautiful wilderness scenery, ranging from boreal forest to cliffs to open valley; it is a provincial park waterway so has marked campsites and portages; there are different options for how to run it; best of all, it has lots of easy rapids and kilometres worth of fast-moving swifts, affectionately known as “boogie water.”
Jeff thinks of the Spanish nostalgically, “It was my first whitewater canoe trip way back when I was a teenager. After spending the intervening years working as a whitewater guide all across the continent, where do you think I took my kids last summer for their first whitewater canoe trip? A Spanish River canoe trip was the perfect place to start.”
Sage advice: “If you are new to whitewater canoeing, then take the East Branch: it starts with calm lakes, then adds some easy swifts, and sprinkles in some rocks along the way toward novice-worthy class II rapids. But he says, “If you have some skills and are looking for a challenge, then the West Branch is for you. This option starts as class III with a half-dozen rocky rapids, a portage or three, and then merges at The Forks for lots of easy boogie water.”
He lauded the train “as a big selling point and a real novelty - likely my kids' favourite part. The Forks to Elbow is short and easy, plus gets the train, so would be my recommendation for a first-time river trip group.”
Options
There are so many choices for this river, depending on your abilities and where you would like to start and end. The train and Biscotasing (unincorporated village), (Biscotasi Lake) are decisions for departure and/or pickup.
The east branch (Duke to Agnew Lake) has a shallower drop and fewer rapids to shoot than the west branch. The main access to the lake system is just prior to it, or take the train to just where the river forks. It's a great river if the water levels are good. The distance is 145 km, 7-10 days, with 10 portages, the longest being 1700m. Total portage distance is 4865m. Take the East Branch of the river for some challenge. This portion of the river offers paddling for canoeists of beginning to intermediate skill level, with Class I and II rapids, lots of swifts, and moving water.
The West Branch (Biscotasing to Agnew Lake) is a little more remote with more rapids to paddle. It is suitable for more experienced paddlers. There are portages around every rapid, so it can be used as a practice white water route. It is 8-12 days in length, the longest portage being 1350m of the 17 portages. Total portage distance is 5020m.
Within the spring freshet, there are more difficult rapids below The Elbow to Agnew Lake.
Times for both vary where you start, with or without the train and where you would like to end.
Get acquainted with the water. Spring water levels can be 1-3 metres higher, so whitewater or beater paddlers gravitate here. As the season progresses, there are plenty of swifts and Class 1 rapids. In late August, you may have no portages between The Forks and The Elbow. Always take a look and scout before committing.
Or, if you are a flat water or sea kayaker, stay on the huge island-studded Biscotasi Lake. You can spend a lot of time here and consider a base camp at one of the lake’s outfitters’ remote cabins (Ritchie's End of Trail and Grey Owl Camps) or camping on those islands.
You’ll need a map
I am intrigued by maps and spend too much time pondering over them, dreaming. In the beginning, there were only topographical maps, and then themed maps came along.
Now, enthusiasts look for the Adventure Map series owned by Chrismar Mapping Services, founded by Christine Kennedy and Mark Smith. They’ve been at it for thirty years. And there is one for the Spanish entitled Spanish River Provincial Park & Area, including Biscotasi Lake. There’s a campfire story here in itself, worth telling.
Mark had a background as a young man in competitive orienteering in North America and Scandinavia/Europe, and got into mapmaking for that sport as a hobby. He also started a small business making a wide variety of custom mapping for: schools, outdoor ed. centres, summer camps, tourist associations, gold mines, bank and insurance coverage maps, military bases, mobile telephone coverage maps, maps for numerous books, websites, interpretive and trailhead signs. Mapping is in his blood.
He noticed in their outdoor travels that “the quality of Canadian maps for hiking and paddling is rather poor in comparison to Europe.”
“As a challenge to our mapmaking capabilities decided to try making high-quality topographic map guides on waterproof paper for Canada.” He wanted to encourage/support confident use of these areas to resist loss of access and loss of hiking/paddling culture in Canada.
“So, we started our Adventure Map series with Point Pelee National Park and then the first of Algonquin Provincial Park series, 30 years ago.” They wanted to include several good river paddling maps to vary from Algonquin and Temagami-type flat water
“The Spanish seemed a good fit given two top-end access points - one suitable for beginner white water paddling, the other more experienced with larger rapids but portages around each for safety,” (henceforth the East and West branches).
The Spanish is also attractive because of its rail access and the possibility to transport canoes to various drop-off points along the route
How they do it.
“The usual process followed - make base map from aerial photos (called stereo photogrammetry on our big Swiss machine), then field survey (paddled the river a couple of times checking and collecting points not seen on aerials like campsites, portages, access points, etc.), research for text portion of guide, layout of all the info with photos, printing on waterproof paper and folding. Typically, the thematic text is an overview of the human and natural history, access points, route description, safety issues, local attractions and contact information.”
They made contact with Fox Lake Lodge (see later in the story) near The Elbow, who helped with logistics and info while researching and running the river - always helpful having local interest and support.
For this map, they made a layout of the river in sections due to length (over 160km depending on route) to allow for a large scale (easier reading).
“Another feature in designing the map, they decided against standard-to-have north at bottom rather than top - makes sense when paddling downstream south - no need to turn the map - confuses people at first until they use it on the river.”
This was the case, and the orientation became natural enough.
“It was a challenge to create this map because of the two Spanish River courses and their length. It is always a challenge trying to fit a lengthy geography onto a limited-size sheet of paper (for Spanish, we were able to fit in sections on one sheet that replaces 15+ government topo sheets), and a greater challenge fitting text and photos around the map sections, but it worked out pretty well.” The map works, I can vouch for this.
“The Spanish River Adventure Map has been a popular one for us because of easy accessibility, character of river, the availability of a good map, without which few people would know of or try it with confidence.”
They make these maps at their own expense.
"As most organizations don’t have the funding to justify such an effort, we make our investment back over many years.”
“One of our trips downriver required us to lining (i.e. pull our canoes with a rope, walking along shore) due to a huge wind event in the area, couldn’t paddle downstream even with the current in many sections.
“We also had a great time on the train, meeting all the local cottagers and characters dropping off along the way with all their paraphernalia, also met by a 'duck' at Pogamasing Lake, one of the times (boat-like truck)."
Look for the 'duck'. They are referring to an amphibious vehicle that’s built for water and land, better known as a duck, or more correctly as a DUKW. If you have seen the movie Saving Private Ryan, these vehicles were designed to bring troops ashore for amphibious landings.
Here's a gem about the river run.
“Looks like our initial version dates to 1999, with updates every few years since then. We print in smallish batches of a few thousand at a time, so they don’t get too dated. It’s been popular from day one because of the relatively easy access, two main branches of differing character, portages at all rapids, which supports confidence among newbies, the cool train angle with numerous drop-off choices, great wilderness scenery and a nice long, uninterrupted by dams and other developments - run of over 150 kilometres or so.
“Probably the best easy access long run in Ontario aside from the much longer Missinaibi River - also an uninterrupted run - which presents a greater logistical challenge.
Mark and Chris say, "one of our favourite activities is camping by one or more of the rapids and playing for a day or two in the one place.”
Don’t be in a hurry, more natural advice.
You’ll need a permit and gear
Interior camping permits, from Ontario Parks, (OP) are required for backcountry camping at Spanish River Provincial Park and Biscotasi Lake. Permits can be purchased online up to two weeks in advance of your arrival date. Go to the website for Backcountry Registration.
Dave Hunt, spokesperson for OP, said reservations for some interior/backcountry parks have been occurring for more than 20 years.
He explained the booking system.
“Bookings for these remote parks are important for both safety and to gauge usage at remote parks in Ontario. Whether booking direct on the Ontario Parks Reservation System or through an organized trip with an outfitter, backcountry registration is required at Missinaibi River, Spanish River, Wabakimi and Woddland Caribou Provincial Parks. Backcountry paddling permits are also required for French River Provincial Park, Missinaibi Provincial Park and parks in the Temagami area.
Some parks, he said, such as French River Provincial Park, allow for bookings of exact campsites, while other parks show more general booking availability by lakes or zones.
From 2020-2024, backcountry visitation permits for the Spanish River have continued to increase.
Here’s more evidence. Spanish River Outfitters (Fox Lake Lodge) is one outfitter that has catered to river goers for quite some time.
The affable owners, Wayne & Monique Dolman, have been at it for 23 years. I met them on the Cartier railway station platform.
“We have helped 70-plus groups paddle the Spanish this summer. It seems we are consistently in that range over the past five years.
“We have been here since 2003, running the outfitters. Over the 23 summers we have been doing this, the river has gained a reputation as an ideal location for beginner and experienced paddlers to experience the remote backcountry of our amazing Boreal forest, Ontario has to offer.”
Wayne said most of our group's average between 4 and 6 people with “The Forks” to “The Elbow” - the most popular is 3 days 2 nights on the river. A beginner’s tip: take the VIA train from Cartier and arrange a car shuttle for “The Elbow.” (You start from Cartier because there is increased vandalism at the downtown Sudbury station, as recommended by VIA train conductors.)
The Spanish River and Biscotasi Lake are favourites for backcountry canoeing. Its rugged landscape, towering white pines, a variety of whitewater, a chance to include road or train access options, and a choice of routes make it a popular trip.
"Back roads" paddling trips involve several variables to create a lasting experience rather than “we did it.”
Next week, we will paddle the river with others and look at a unique alternative.