Colio Estate Winery is located in Harrow, near Windsor in southwestern Ontario. It was founded by three Italian bricklayers from the Collio region in Friuli in the northeast of Italy.
They were originally in a partnership with a winery in Udine, which withdrew before the winery was completed. Nevertheless, the three men persisted and Colio was born.
One of the men, Enzo De Luca is still an active shareholder, while 50% of the ownership has been sold to the family that owns Bacalhoa Wines of Portugal.
Recently, the President of Colio, Jim Clark, and Allison Christ, the winemaker, were here in Sault Ste.Marie to visit their Wine Boutique located in Pino’s Get Fresh grocery store. I was told by Colio’s local representative, Bob Gray, that of the eleven boutiques Colio has throughout Ontario, the Sault store is the most successful.
There is a very good chance that when the new Pino’s opens off Great Northern Road above the Second Line, it will also include a Colio boutique.
At a dinner hosted by Colio I was able to renew acquaintances with Jim Clark. I learned that since 2015, Colio no longer owns its own vineyards in Essex. Jim explained: “We sold the vineyard in 2015 – simply a business decision based on three major weather incidents including a major hail storm that wiped out over 50 per cent of the vineyard. It would have been the third time we had to replant and had invested millions in the vineyard over the course of a decade or more.”
Instead, Colio pivoted and has since entered into agreements with grape growers in the Niagara-on-the-Lake region to purchase fruit that is custom-grown to Colio’s specifications.
Jim went on to say that probably 90 per cent of the wine that is made in the Lake Erie North Shore region relies on fruit from the Niagara area, and that this is also true of wine crafted in Prince Edward County at the eastern end of Lake Ontario.
Clearly, the model works.
At present, most of the wines available are in the “very affordable” price range. There is the Hopetown Wine Company line of VQA wines – that is, wines made from grapes grown in Ontario – as well as two “international blends': ‘High Road Cellars’ and ‘Most Wanted’. International blends meet Ontario standards by including a minimum 25 per cent of wine from Ontario-grown fruit. In Colio’s case, the international wine comes from an excellent grower in South Africa, which helps to explain how good these wines actually are.
Many wines are available at both the Colio Boutique and at local LCBO stores. One cautionary note: since the sale of wine etc. was opened up to grocery and convenience stores, the prices shown in the boutiques and other stores do not include the sales tax and bottle deposit – when you pay at the till, the final price will be basically the same as you find at the LCBO where these additional fees have been folded in from the start.
Currently there is a significant gap between the many wines priced under $15, and their ultra-premium and award-winning Small Lot Series in the $70 range. In the past there have been wines such as the Bricklayers series in the $20-$30 range as well, and I expect that as harvests and vintages permit, we will see these wines again. Allison explained that they hope to release a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Reserve Chardonnay before Christmas.
The Hopetown Series honours the old name of Harrow in Essex County, and each wine in turn pays tribute to the history of the area. “Bobbing for Wool” is a Sauvignon Blanc. At one time sheep would be driven into the lake to clean their wool. It was so thick and buoyant that the animals would just bob in the waves.
Winemaker Allison Christ feels the Sauvignon Blanc emphasizes passionfruit and guava notes –it is a softer version than those we tend to find from New Zealand.
The Hopetown Pinot Grigio Rosé has decent weight, some strawberry on the palate and is definitely an easy sipper, while the approachable Craft Red is a medium-bodied red blend of 87% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays ripe dark fruit and finishes with smooth silky tannins
Both the Most Wanted Cabernet Sauvignon and the High Road Cellars Cabernet Merlot are very good buys. The Most Wanted is more straightforward and fruity with a lovely smooth finish, while the High Road has more complexity with black currant and black cherry notes along with some earthiness on the finish. This wine is as dry as can be, but you wouldn’t know it as the fruit persists impressively. It is worth aerating this wine, giving it time to breathe in order for it to show at its best.
With the Small Lot Series, Colio truly raises the bar. Allison Christ, in referring to the Cabernet Franc, explained that 2020 enjoyed a stunning September with long sunny days and low humidity, resulting in a perfect harvest. The resulting wine is very big in flavour with perfect balance and extraction and an absolutely silken finish.
The Small Lots Meritage, a blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, and Cab Franc won the Lieutenant Governor Award at the Ontario Wine Awards. A WineAlign writer gave it a 90, and called it “a well-structured blend replete with inky black fruit, savoury elegance and potency.”
There is plenty to enjoy with Colio’s wines. I think you will be happy with them.
Colio also owns Thornbury Craft Cider and Brewery. At the 2025 National Wine Awards of Canada, Thornbury had several of the top ciders, including the top cider of the year, Thornbury Craft Co. The Tragically Hip Road Apples Cider. You can check them out for yourselves, and I will try to review them next time out.
Wines to try
13th Street Burger Blend Gamay Noir Pinot Noir VQA, $15.95, on the General List, took Gold at the 2025 Awards, where it was complimented for being vibrant fruity and fresh – “open, cheerful, fruit-centred blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir with notes of ripe strawberries. “
Voga Still Prosecco DOC, $15.95, from Italy, brings back an earlier version of the wine that has become a most popular bubbly. Comprised entirely of Glera, this offers stone fruit characteristics –apricot and peach. Without the carbonation, this still wine has a creamier texture, and is less acidic in impact.
Vintages
White
Élisabeth Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc 2023, $13.95, is from France’s southwest. A community review on the Natalie MacLean website tells us this “ invigorating white marries Colombard’s bright orchard-fruit crunch with Sauvignon Blanc’s zesty citrus and garden-herb perfume. Its pale-straw hue leads into flavors of green apple, lime blossom and a hint of tarragon. Vibrant acidity and seamless texture make each sip utterly refreshing”
Villa Maria Earth Garden Sauvignon Blanc 2024, $18.95, from New Zealand is fruit-driven and thirst quenching, with zesty impressions of grapefruit and herbs. It carries a 92 from camdouglasms.com.
Tenute Orestiadi Riserva Il Bianco di Ludovico 2021, $18.95, is a Sicilian white which David Lawrason describes as having “a very exotic, ripe and spicy nose with pineapple, orange, clove, pepper and evergreen. It is quite full bodied, intense and almost resinous/sappy. It is quite high in acid, warm and intense. Tons of character, with excellent length.” – 91.
Rosé
Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2024, $20.95, from the Rhone region, situated close to Chateauneuf-du Pape, is described by the producer as “eye: deep bright "partridge eye" ruby pink wine with woodland fruit - cherry nose. Mouth: powerful and flinty on the palate with a long spicy finish. It is a blend of drip juices which give it the requisite aromas, fruit, freshness and acidity, and pressing juices which preserve its richness, structure and strength.”
Red
Famille Fabre Pirouette en Minervois 2022, $13.95, from France is new to the LCBO. Vintages suggests that this wine, which undergoes a year in bottle after a year in concrete, is “silky, luscious, and brimming with red fruit, lifted herbs, and gentle earth notes. A great wine for summer entertaining””
Fiuza Ducado do Infante Reserva Red 2022, $13.95, from Portugal is a “rich, smooth wine… full of black fruits and ripe background tannins. With its structure softening and its black plum flavors coming to the fore, the wine is developing well. It is certainly worth aging further and will be ready to drink from 2025. -90.” – Wine Enthusiast
Desquiciado Malbec, Don Cristobal 1492 Bonarda, and Infinito Winemaker’s Selection Malbec are all from Argentina, each costing an identical $15.95, and each carrying score of 90 from jamessuckling.com. Seek them out and decide for yourself!